Berlin Sketches

Martin-Gropius-Bau

2012-01-24T19:16:00.007+01:00

Sunday was cold, windy and rainy, The Fearsome Three, and it would have been such a perfect day to stay inside, cuddle up on the sofa and watch old movies.

But, hey, life is not all guns'n'roses, huh?

So I went outside to get an inside scoop on the Martin-Gropius-Bau in Berlin Kreuzberg.

Until 1989 the Martin-Gropius-Bau, one of the world's leading exhibition halls, was located at the Berlin Wall.

Martin-Gropius-Bau with remnants of Berlin Wall


Martin-Gropius-Bau

Formerly housing the Museum of Decorative Arts, the building was errected in Renaissance style by the architects Martin Gropius – a great uncle of the famous BAUHAUS architect – and Heino Schmieden. Allegoric mosaics from different eras as well as coats of Arms of German Länder (federal states) adorn the outer walls.

Seeking shelter under the canopy of the opposite House of Representatives where I could get a good view and overall picture of the Martin-Gropius-Bau, I immediately drew the suspicion of the eye of the law on duty who took a few hesitating steps into my direction, but then surrendered to my most winning smile and twinkling eye.

Watch details in video:

As soon as I entered the Martin-Gropius-Bau a very charming lady custodian approached me and asked, if I knew who Martin Gropius were, as many people confuse him with his great-nephew Walter and subsequently wonder about the non-BAUHAUSish architecture of the building.

Martin-Gropius-Bau skylight view from ground floor

The following video shows the skylight topview:

The building's massive square footprint (70 x 70 m) is split by an atrium to draw natural light to every floor during daytime. Sadly the atrium was closed during my visit, but you can get an impression on this website.

Martin-Gropius-Bau footprint

Inaugurated in 1881 and housing the Museum of Pre- and Early History and the East Asian Art Collection after World War I, the building was severely damaged during the final weeks of World War II.

Only as recently as 1966 the building was included under a preservation order. Restoration work began in 1978 under the direction of Winnetou Kampmann and Ute Westström. It was then named after Martin Gropius who had vigorously supported the reconstruction (Schmieden had died aged 78 in 1913).

Today, the building is globally known as a venue for temporary exhibitions of international standing.

Berliner Festspiele

Vintage Double-decker Bus to Wannsee

2012-01-22T12:59:00.004+01:00

If you are into vintage cars, there is a good chance you also have a soft spot for vintage busses.

Bus Stop "Pfaueninsel"

Good news: In Berlin you can have a bumpy ride to Wannsee on a regular vintage city bus.

The number 218 bus runs every other hour starting out at Theodor-Heuss-Platz (for exact schedule follow this link).

My starting point: Theodor-Heuss-Platz

It even takes you right through Grunewald forest on a road forbidden to other vehicles (watch video below).

The trip also takes you past a pitoresque landmark of the region, the Grunewald Tower and ends at the terminus Pfaueninsel.

Click on pic below to enlarge.

Prussian Paradise – The Peacock Island

2011-10-08T19:20:00.022+02:00

Last Tuesday I took advantage of what I assumed to probably be one of late summer's last warm days to venture forth to Berlin's famous Lake Wannsee, and, in particular, the “Pfaueninsel” or “Peacock Island”, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Peacock Island – view from ferry boat

To get to the island by bus you might want to start at U Theodor-Heuss-Platz and take number 218 (goes every hour) right to the terminus. From there you take the small ferry boat departing every 15 minutes. Every other hour you can have a bumpy ride on the vintage bus with its overstuffed benches, just as comfortable as grandma's sofa. I strongly suggest you try this.

After a chequered history in which figure a wendish village in the island's northeast, rabbit breeding and an alchemistic glass foundry, King Frederick William II (Friedrich Wilhelm II.), King of Prussia, Prince-Elector of Brandenburg and sovereign prince of the Principality of Neuchâtel, nephew and successor of famous “Old Fritz”, aka “Frederick the Great” took over the island that had lied fallow for over 100 years.

Already as a young prince Frederick William had spent many precious and romantic hours with his beloved mistress “Wilhelmine Encke”, daughter of a chamber musician at Frederick the Great's court.

Now he installed a dairy farm in the island's east and built the white palace serving as love nest in the west. The interior of this palace survived two world wars and has been almost completely preserved until today.

The place holds a good deal of magic for kids, if I want to trust the various reviews from "ex-children" on the Internet.

They seem to be very fond of the palace which to me – quite frankly – looks like the imitation of a bouncy castle without the fun the latter might provide. For kids it might look like a real fairy-tale castle, though.

Anyhow, I went there to take some pics for you, gentle nature loving reader, and so I spent two rather boring hours walking around in this natural preserve, shooting photos and never being able to get anywhere close to the Lake Wannsee.

It is strictly forbidden to leave the official paths and they make sure visitors do not infringe those provisions by securing the bank slopes with electrified fencing. Ouch!

As the island is a natural preserve, visitors are not allowed to bring animals or bikes onto the island, neither is it permitted to lie down anywhere else than on the one lawn referred to as “Liegewiese”.

Liegewiese = lawn for sun bathing

Smoking is forbidden as well and passing gas might be somewhere down the list, too – if you care to take a closer look.

Now, as I mentioned my boredom with this idyllic island, it is only fair to state that I'm not exactly a fan of virgin landscapes or wildlife, but rather of tutored lawns (like the Liegewiese, I admit), well-groomed hedges and insect free environments. I know ... I know …

They have that really extensive lawn for sunbathing.
What I didn't understand was why the hell they don't have a playground for children there, too.
Altogether I think it's a beautiful little island.

You might be interested in watching this little film by Stefan Wirth on Youtube.

Vintage Cars on Berlin's Ku'damm – Shots

2011-06-01T18:09:00.004+02:00

I'll do better when I have more time to bring the pics online!

Misheard Lyrics – German/Turkish

2011-04-25T14:22:00.000+02:00

I just love this, so I have to share. Only people who know German will understand, though:

Funny video where Turkish lyrics are interpreted as German

Soviet War Memorial (Ehrenmal) – Воин-освободитель

2011-04-22T14:41:00.001+02:00

This impressive (12 m high) statue of a Soviet soldier holding a child (artist: Yevgeny Vuchetich/Евгений Викторович Вучетич) crushing the Hakenkreuz under his feet overlooks the burial site of 5,000 soldiers of the Red Army (among the 20,000) who fell in the Battle of Berlin in April/May 1945.

Built in Social Realist style in the Treptower Park, the vast memorial consist of a central area in front of the monument, lined on both sides by 16 stone block with decorated with military scenes and quotation from Joseph Stalin, both in Russian and German.

View from top of hill

A portal consisting of a pair of stylized Soviet flags and flanked by two statues of kneeling soldiers builds the entrance to the central area.

Right opposite the gigantic statue on the other end of the center line, another figure, a female, represents the Motherland weeping at the loss of her sons.

Really artsy film about the site on Youtube by KrokyMovie

Frescoes inside the gazebo beneath the statue

Treptower Park Impressions

2011-04-18T20:30:00.004+02:00

Weeping Willow

Why the hell has nobody ever told me about the Treptower Park? I don't get it. Do people wanna keep it to themselves, or what?

I only discovered this gorgeous beauty last weekend, in the course of a short film project, when we were supposed to shoot somewhere in Treptow-Köpenick.

Part of the super-sized park is a beautiful promenade alongside the river Spree. Feels like a holiday at one of the North Sea ports. For real! I like this part of the park most.

If you continue to follow the river, you come right to the "Insel der Jugend" (Isle of Youth), a tiny romantic, almost kitschy place. Wonderful.

If you prefer a stroll in the woods, the part between "Puschkinallee" and "Am Treptower Park" is more suitable for you. There you also find the gigantic Soviet War Memorial which is embedded in an artificial landscape.

View to the church on opposite peninsula Stralau

Bridge crossing over to the Insel der Jugend (Isle of Youth)

View to the bridge from the Insel der Jugend (Isle of Youth)

Footprints of famous polar bear Knut (Eisbär Knut)

Promenade alongside the River Spree

Landscape between Puschkinallee and Am Treptower Park

Valet de Chambre builds Palais am Festungsgraben

2011-04-05T10:43:00.001+02:00

Palais am Festungsgraben (former Palais Donner)

The above Palais was originally built in baroque style by Johann Gottfried Donner, the Valet de Chambre of Prussian King Frederick II (Friedrich der Große) in 1753 and redesigned, one century later, with the – then very hip – classicistic "livery" it wears nowadays.

The Palais is situated right behind the chestnut grove of the New Guard House and is the only buiilding in this neighborhood that survived World War II relatively unscathed.

It disposes of several very representative halls and is used for festive receptions or exclusive events (can be chartered by you too!). It even won an award for being "one of the best event locations in Germany".

Furthermore, the building serves as a theater, hosts two galleries and the Tajik Tee Salon.

Old pictures of the building from the Federal Archive (Bundesarchiv)

Two are better than One – Heinrich Heine Sculpture

2011-04-04T21:10:00.001+02:00

This cheerful fella holds the fort, surrounded by the holy sites of the Humboldt University, the Gorki Theater, the New Guard House and the Palais am Festungsgraben.

Click pic to enlarge

The statue of the young Heinrich Heine (one of Germany's most significant poets), is, however, not as unique as you would think: The original statue was cast on the occasion of the 100th anniversary of Heine's death (in 1956) and designed to be mounted behind the New Guard House and in front of the Gorki Theater, but the GDR regime didn't care much for the "unheroic-ish" Bronze and its boyish charms and banned it to the Weinbergspark, somewhere in Wedding (one of Berlin's districts).

Just in time for the 200th birthday anniversary in 1997 (the GDR was dead then ...), discussions flared up, as to install the memorial where it was meant to be in the first place. Now, the Wedding people didn't like the idea and dug their claws deep into the statue to keep it in place.

Unceremoniously practical, an identical second statue was cast and mounted where you can see it now.

A perfect Day

2011-04-03T21:43:00.005+02:00

When I first came to Berlin, it didn't seem like such a big city to me. I have no idea why I thought it was smaller than Paris. In fact it is twice the size, and the more I know it, the bigger it gets.

There are so many "hidden places", so many treasures to discover, beautiful sites, beautiful squares and theaters and places, and if nothing else, beautiful people.

Today was one of the rare days in life that just seemed perfect.

The Chinese say you should never praise the day until evening has come, and that is one of the hard and fast rules in life I stick to.

Okay, now, the evening has arrived and the past day held so many marvelous moments.

Starting out with a late night/early morning in a Kreuzberg bar with two delightful people and inspiring conversation, followed by a sweet and lazy sleep in, followed by a delicious breakfast, a stroll through Wedding's Brunnenstraße with a stop-by at the Trendmafia fashion market (taking place every first weekend in month and offering Berlin designed stuff), delicious ice cream from Bahnhof Friedrichstraße taken to the lively outdoor steps of the Grimm Center, and then ... the discovery of a wonderful, wonderful neighborhood: The surroundings of, and, the Palais am Festungsgraben.

This is a great place to hang out on a late Sunday afternoon.
Surrounded by this beautiful and yet so quiescent scenery. There are many gorgeous places in Berlin, but this one is really quiet!

Berlin Wall Memorial

2011-04-02T12:12:00.003+02:00

Berlin Wall Memorial Visitor Center

From August 13, 1961 to November 9, 1989, a nasty line cut through Berlin's entire city center: The notorious Berlin Wall, built to prevent citizens of the GDR from fleeing to the West. West Berlin was an island located in the middle of the GDR.

As the wall alone couldn't stop people from trying to escape from the GDR regime, it was additionally fortified by a death strip all along the border, as well as a "shoot-to-kill" order.

The area along the restricted zone was patrolled, watchtowers were set up, signal fences giving silent alarms were installed and the land around the border was declared no-man's-land and was lit up bright as day during the night.

Observation platforms in the West allowed tourists and West Berliners to sneak a peek "over the fence" into an other world.

In the peaceful revolution of 1989, the guards of Bornholmer Straße border opened the gates on November 9th without formal order and masses of people flocked to the West.

The Berlin Wall Memorial partly is an open-air museum and the memorial grounds on the former border strip are open all year round. Admission is free. There also is a viewing platform at the Documentation Center (Bernauer Strasse 111). Don't miss it!

If you are up to some research, check out the specialized bookstore on the history of the Berlin Wall in the Visitor Center.

A really intriguing and actually quite spooky part of the Berlin Wall history is on display in the Nordbahnhof S-Bahn station: The "Ghost Station Exhibition".

What is this?

As a result of all the wall building and the busy cutting the city in two halves, public transport network had to be divided too. Three lines that passed through the city center and a short stretch of East Berlin territory stayed open to West Berliners while East Berlin stations were closed down.

Villa von der Heydt – Classicist Survivor of Nazi Plans

2011-04-01T11:38:00.000+02:00

When I got off the M29 at Köbisstraße to visit the Bauhaus Archive, I spotted a beautiful, beautiful classicist mansion right across the street. I only took two quick shots and googled the place later on, as I was curious about the mansion's history.

Turns out it is named "Villa von der Heydt" and it is one of the few remaining villas in "Tiergarten" (name of this area of the city) to survive Nazi urban planning, as well as World War II.

Not particularly well-versed in German history, I was, up to the present day, totally unaware of the Nazi plan to transform Berlin into a Welthauptstadt Germania (World Capital Germania).

According to the Nazi perception, Berlin's architecture was much too provincial – as compared to Paris' splendor, for example – to become the desired World Capital after a no-doubt-soon-to-be-gloriously-won World War II.

So, a word and a blow: Along the lines of Haussmann's redesign of Paris, Albert Speer, the designated architect, wanted to demolish no less than 52,000 homes in order to make room for the ginormous project.

The surviving "Villa von der Heydt" looks back on a, so it seems, quite turbulent history.

Nowadays the seat of the Stiftung Preußischer Kulturbesitz (Prussian Cultural Heritage Foundation), it was built in neo-renaissance style in 1862, by architect Hermann Ende, for Baron August von der Heydt.

After the Baron's sad demise in 1874, his heir rented the mansion out to a Chinese ambassador who – as word has it – used the location to run some kind of rather rambunctious tavern.

Oh, how I wish, I could travel back in time to take some wildly vicious shots of the sappy scenery ...

Afterwards the building was regained by one of the erector's grandnephews who transformed the site into one of Berlin's most brilliant salons.

After World War I the family sold the house to the "General German Sports Association" who, truth be told, didn't care much for work outs, but secretly established an illegal gambling den for its members.

In 1938 the house was bought by the Nazi regime and used as official residence for one of their ministers.

World War II put the beautiful house into ruins, leaving behind only the outer walls and the basement, where candy and chocolate was produced for a while, until the mansion was officially declared a landmark in the late 1960s, which finally led to its reconstruction in 1979.

Bauhaus Archive – Museum of Design

2011-03-31T14:04:00.010+02:00

Entrance with cafeteria

What essential piece of wisdom did I take away from my visit to the Bauhaus-Archiv yesterday?
Roaming the exhibition halls, merely escorted by the soft English audio guide voices, I was pondering about life and learning and life long learning – and of course, if only briefly, about architecture and design.

The essential piece of wisdom I took with me was that wherever you go and whatever you do, it is good to look at things in a new, in a fresh, in a pure-minded way. Untainted, so to speak, as if human beings were able to ever look at anything in an "untainted" way ... ah, but let's leave this for now and just pretend we could.

For me, the essential of Bauhaus philosophy is to try and look at things in a different way. I will take that with me and hope I'll never forget to apply it to my daily life.

As for the museum: If you go there you absolutely will want to take an audio guide (it's included in the entrance fee). I thought it was great to be informed about so many details while looking at the pictures and design objects. By the way, it is strictly forbidden to take photographs inside the building!

The Bauhaus Archive Museum of Design houses an extensive collection documenting the history and impact of the Bauhaus movement.

The movement started out on April 1, 1919 in Weimar, then relocated to Dessau in 1925 and finally to Berlin in 1932 where it was pressured to close in April 1933 by the National Socialists.

The Nazis denounced the Bauhaus for its – what they called – "degenerate art" (the nazi term for modern art) and frowned upon its modernist style as un-German, probably influenced by Jews and on top of that a front for communists and social liberals.

Bauhaus
Bauhaus Museum Weimar
Bauhaus Movement Weimar

East of Eden

2011-03-28T11:22:00.003+02:00

Yes, I like the name, guess why.

This is an independent international second hand bookshop in the very heart of East Berlin. Not really my kinda place, but maybe interesting to check out for some of you.

They seem to have regular events like readings, exhibitions and live music.

When I was there – late afternoon on a weekday – it was deserted. They have all sorts of books in European languages and provide seats to hang out.

Bleibtreustraße Berlin

2011-03-27T13:41:00.004+02:00

Yesterday I strolled down "Bleibtreustraße" between Kurfürstendamm and city train station "S Savignyplatz", one of my favorite streets in Berlin, because of the gorgeous house fronts and charming little stores, bars and restaurants.

It was a little cold, though, and annoying slips of paper spoiled almost each of the beautiful doors, announcing that some filming will take place there next week and blabla.

So my hands got quite stiff from all the paper slip removal and shutter release button pushing work. "Bleib treu" means "stay loyal" in English and "reste fidèle" in French. The name stems from the German - I believe not so famous - painter of battle scenes "Georg Bleibtreu" and a lot of the shops incorporated his name into their business names.

This must be Rapunzel's Tower

The street won notoriety when – 40 years ago – in a Chicago-style shoot-out by a German gangster group one Iranian pimp was killed and several wounded. Subsequently the street was nicknamed "Bleistreustraße" which is kinda hard to translate (I need some help here). So, please learn German to figure out what it means.

Graffiti in Friedrichshain

2011-03-22T11:41:00.005+01:00

This graffito found in Friedrichshain reads:
"Everything fine again!! BP buys a new ocean".

GDR Architecture – Frankfurter Tor Towers

2011-03-21T11:52:00.003+01:00

Twin Towers at Frankfurter Tor

Two impressive, conspicuous copper-topped towers, reminiscent of the German and French dome cupolas at Gendarmenmarkt, mark the inception of Frankfurter Allee at Frankfurter Tor square.

They are today listed historic monuments of the Stalin era and heritage of GDR times.

The structures alongside the former "Stalinallee" (name given to the avenue in 1949 for Stalin's 70th birthday) are designed in the Soviet "wedding-cake" style and were built under the direction of architect Hermann Henselmann between 1951 and 1960 to create a comfortable living environment for East German workers.

As the buildings' huge proportions make it difficult to catch them on photos in their entirety, I recommend Google Street View to get an overall impression of the site.

The Gray and the Colors of East Berlin

2011-03-20T18:22:00.007+01:00

Ordinarily, I'm not such a sun loving lady, I prefer cloudy and hazy, but currently, I must admit, Mr. Sun does a great job on the photos.

So, this afternoon I ventured to the East of Berlin and squeezed into the tram from Warschauer Straße to Frankfurter Tor (FYI: you can only find the tram in the eastern parts of the city as rails in the western parts were removed during Berlin's division in favor of other means of transport).

Occupied house in the East

Crowds of people were eager to get to the same place as me, it seemed. I wondered if they might hand out free beer somewhere on the way, but a lot of people already brought their own, a common habit in this part of the city. People travel around in public transport sucking on bottle-necks ...

When I got out at Frankfurter Tor, a street clown pointed his finger and cheered at me: "Oh, oh, you are an Elf! From Lord of the Rings!"

That was amusing and made me smile for a while.


Backyard sheds with grafitti

When I got back from my photo spree, I had to run to catch the tram, and a young guy who had just left the tram went back there to stand in the door and hold it open for me with a big smile.

That was heart-warming and made me smile for a while as well.

I've done my share of writing for today and am only publishing a few photos. I got material for days to come now, articles will follow.

Debris house with grafitti, Rigaer Straße

BAUHAUS Architecture – One of many Examples

2011-03-20T13:05:00.006+01:00

Fancy Bauhaus elevator

Yesterday I stumbled across that gem in the former "Haus der Deutschen Buchdrucker" – and contrary to my settled conviction that I strongly dislike Bauhaus architecture, I see now how beautiful it really is.

Of course this house is only one of the many buildings, building projects and housing estates in Berlin, constructed during the BAUHAUS period.

The Bauhaus school was founded in 1919 by famous architect Walter Gropius in Weimar, and endeavored to bring all arts – including architecture – together, to finally create a synthesis of the arts (Gesamtkunstwerk).

The aim was to bring modernist design in everyday life, to form a consortium where the gap between artist and craftsman was abolished.

Max Taut, the architekt of the Haus der Deutschen Buchdrucker", was like his famous brother Bruno an advocate of what was called "New Objectivity" or "New Sobriety" (Neue Sachlichkeit), a predominantly German movement of the 1920s and 1930s, forcibly stopped by the Nazi seizure of power in 1933.

Elevator interior with wooden bench

Groundfloor Haus der Deutschen Buchdrucker

Bauhaus staircase

Bauhaus tiling

Şehitlik Mosque – Berlin Türk Şehitlik Camii

2011-03-19T19:06:00.022+01:00

Şehitlik Mosque with Cemetery

As the weather today was almost obtrusively serene and sunny, I decided this was the right time to take a few more pics of Berlin's fairytale-like, most fabulous mosque: The Turkish Şehitlik Mosque.

I published a little article about it here on my blog in October 2009, but that day I had forgotten to charge my camera's battery, so I could only take a few precious photos. Now I took a whole load of pics and the weather was my friend.

The premises consist of a cultural center and a mosque. The upper floor of the cultural center features a big terrace and a building element half the size of the ground floor.

The mosque itself is comprised of four stories: A multipurpose hall in the basement, a prayer room on the ground floor, the mosque on the third floor and a gallery where the women usually pray.

Main prayer language is Turkish, occasionally Arabic and on Fridays prayers are read in German, too.

A brazen plaque right beside the entrance gate explains the origin of the cemetery in Turkish and German. For a short explanation visit my October 2009 article.

Here is the Turkish text:

"Berlin'de ikinci Türk Mezarliği olarak 1866 yilinda Sultan Abdulaziz zamaninda kurulmuştur. 1798 yilinda tesis olunan ilk Türk Kabristanindaki mevtalar buraya taşinmişlardir.

Mezarlari nakledilen, Prusya'da Osmanli Sefiri iken, 29 Ekim 1798 de vefat eden devlet adami, şair ve tasavvuf eri Giritli Ali Aziz Efendi ile diğer dört merhum adina 1867 yilinda kurulan abide, 1988 de Berlin Senatosu tarafindan Diyanet İşleri Türk-İslam Birliği'nin işbirliği ile tamir edilmiştir.

1920-1921 yillarinda şehitliğin ihyasinda Osmanli Büyük Elçiliği eski imami, Hafiz Şükrü Efendi 'nin büyük emeği geçmiştir. Caminin iki minareli bugünkü şekli Türk işçilerinin katkilariyla gerçekleştirilmiştir."

Official Site of Şehitlik Mosque in German language

Rita, Pannierstraße 12 – Coffee comes as an Objet d'Art

2011-03-17T17:26:00.005+01:00

Damn it! I didn't have my "real" camera with me, only my shitty xperia phone camera. Bummer!

This cup of coffee was so beautiful to look at, I hardly dared to take a sip.

They have yummy home-made high-calorie cake here. Really tasty. Staff was friendly and discreet, music a little bit too loud for my taste, just so you have to raise your voice a tad to get through to your company.

The seats are unpadded, so I suggest you eat a lot of that fancy cake they sell to ensure you develop a bit of a pad yourself.

Alt-Pichelsdorf – Boat Harbor and Lakeside Promenade

2011-03-14T11:37:00.003+01:00


Boat harbor and lakeside promenade in Alt-Pichelsdorf

Halfway between Berlin Fair Grounds and Havelhöhe, the bus X49 stops in Alt-Pichelsdorf.
Having spotted lots of water from the upper deck, I got curious, leaped to my feet, jumped down the stairs and out the bus.

After a little walk I reached the deserted boat harbor which must be brimming with life and quite idyllic during spring and summer time.

Pichelsdorf was first mentioned in 1375, in times of emporer Charles IV, the second king of Bohemia. In 1590 it still was a fairly insignificant fishermen's village, inhabited by only 14 families and their chairman.

In 1780 a "Büdnerhaus" (seems to be some kind of tavern with garden) was built. It still exists under the name of "Historischer Weinkeller" and apparently you can get home made Feuerzangenbowle (flaming fire tongs punch) there. I guess I'll have to check that out some time soon.

Badenscher Hof – Jazz like being yelled at

2011-03-10T11:20:00.003+01:00

Are you into really, really, really loud music? You'd just love to get deaf at early age? You enjoy music when it's all blended together like in a big ol' stew?

Then go visit a jazz concert at Badenscher Hof. You'll be all abuzzed!

To be honest, you can also go there if you are already deaf, because you can feel the music! If you are into piano music, however, don't go there. During the rare moments that you can hear the piano in the whole mash it sounds somewhat thin.

Now the positive things: The staff is friendly and attentive, the place is suitable for having a drink or a snack, and as I said, if you like it loud you will probably love the music. Many people do, as tells us a quick search on qype.

We left the place ten minutes after the concert had started. When we hit the subway my friend said "I'm so glad not to be yelled at anymore!"

A-Trane – Jazz, great Atmo and Pretzels

2011-03-08T11:43:00.008+01:00

Situated not far from Savignyplatz, A-Trane offers the perfect setting for a relaxed and fun evening with classy live music.

They have excellent staffing, friendly, quick and professional, and around 11 p.m. the "Pretzel Man" arrives with a basket full of the southern German speciality.

Around this time it also gets really crowded, so that it might become hard to squeeze in. The audience is international, locals and tourists, with an age range from 16 to 70+.

On Mondays you can enjoy the inspirational, delightfully unconventional arrangements of Andreas Schmidt & Friends who seem to have found the perfect conjuction of music and humor. It is fascinating to observe how the band manages to draw a smile on people's faces.

Grimm Center Berlin – A very special Library

2011-03-02T10:33:00.002+01:00

When the days are cold and rainy and your hunger for information cannot be satisfied by the Internet alone, go visit the the Humboldt University's library, the Jacob-und-Wilhelm-Grimm-Zentrum in Berlin Mitte.

Situated near U + S Friedrichstraße train stations and Berlin's "Museum Island" one of Europe's most modern libraries offers – in addition to its exceptional architecture – unsurprisingly a multitude of literature including a extensive collection of scientific journals (over 2000!).

The Center is open to the public until midnight on weekdays and until early evenings on weekends.

For photos visit this page!

Address and position plan

Museum "Collection Childhood and Youth"

2011-03-01T09:41:00.005+01:00

Recently I visited what I would best describe as the "creepy doll museum". From the description on the Internet I took that in the Collection Childhood and Youth I would discover all kinds of cute old toys and interesting facts about childhood in the past century.

Already the building was a blast. First I thought it was an abandoned school and hesitated to enter:

No kidding: This is the museum! The collection is hosted on the third floor. The rest of the building is empty.

I was visiting in the middle of afternoon, and when I left the first of the three exhibition rooms one of the two others had just been cleaned, so that the floor was still wet , and the third was in the process of being cleaned. As I was bold and entered the "wet floor room" number one, one of the custodians came after me and threw me out!

In my opinion the collection was not worth my time, but everyone has to judge for themselves.

There was a grandpa with a three year old, and the kid seemed to enjoy the collection and was very curious about it.

Most interesting was the gigantic book displayed in the corridor where children from all over Berlin had drawn pictures of their city.

Museum

Beauty in ugly Places

2011-02-28T18:25:00.001+01:00

While waiting for the bus in Alt-Treptow late afternoon, this building caught my eye:

And of course these balconies:

Winter Wonder World for Children and Children at Heart

2010-12-16T14:13:00.005+01:00

If you visit the Europa Center in Berlin's Mitte close to the Gedächtniskirche, you will find yourself in a wonderful winter scenery – surrounded by happy mice and tasy looking chunks of cheese.

This is a must for everyone with small kids, for children at heart and for really giant cats with a healthy appetite for oversized rodents!

Gendarmenmarkt – Festival of Lights 2010

2010-11-06T15:12:00.008+01:00

Gendarmenmarkt Berlin with Concert House and French Cathedral

During the Festival of Lights 2010 I took a few photos from the Gendarmenmarkt, my favortite hang out in Berlin.

German Cathedral

I spent many delightful evenings here, listening to the enchanting music wafting across the square. There is always some musician playing the violin, the cello or a brass instrument and it is wonderful to have picnic on a balmy summer night under the roof of the German Cathedral overlooking this most beautiful square, watching tourists marvel at the classic architcture.

Detail German Cathedral

Three monumental buildings dominate Gendarmenmarkt:

The most recent building is the Concert House (Konzerthaus) built by Karl Friedrich Schinkel in 1821 as a theater based on the ruins of the National Theater fallen prey to fire in 1817. Some columns and exterior walls are remnants of the former theater.

Concert House Gendarmenmarkt built by the famous architect Schinkel

The Concert House forms the center of the German Cathedral (Deutscher Dom) in the south and the French Cathedral (Französischer Dom) in the north. See map

The French Cathedral (officially French Church of Friedrichstadt) was built between 1701 and 1705 for the Huguenot (Calvinist) community - who then constituted about 25% of Berlin's population.

French Cathedral (Französische Friedrichstadtkirche)

Originally modeled after the Huguenot church in Charenton-Saint-Maurice in France, the tower and porticos were only added to the building in 1785 by Carl von Gontard.

Church of Charenton-Saint-Maurice

The distinction of the two cathedrals always presented a challenge to me until I learned that the French Cathedral is the one with the restaurant. Furthermore, it also has a viewing platform and the Huguenot museum is seated there.

Like the other buildings on the Gendarmenmarkt, the cathedral was heavily damaged in World War II and rebuilt during the years 1977 to 1981.

The German Cathedral (officially „New Church“) was built from 1701 to 1708 by Giovanni Simonetti after designs by Martin Grünberg and modified accordingly (domed tower) during the years 1780 to 1785 after a desing by Carl von Gontard.


Dome of German Cathedral

The church was destroyed in 1943 during World War II and rebuilt from 1977 to1988.
Both churches are not „cathedrals“ in the actual sense of the word (Greek kathedra, meaning: seat, bench) as no bishop has ever been seated there.

In the center of the square stands a statue of the famous German poet Friedrich Schiller (1759-1805). This great 18th century poet was (together with Johann Wolfgang von Goethe) a proponent of the literary movement „Sturm und Drang“ (Storm and Urge/Sturm and Stress) which encouraged the extreme expression of emotions.


Statue of famous German poet Friedrich Schiller

The square itself originates from 1688 and was built after a design of Johann Arnold Nering as part of the „Friedrichstadt“ structured by the Prince-Elector Friedrich III who later became known as King Friedrich I of Prussia.
Originally designed as a market square and named Linden-Markt then Mittelmarkt or Friedrichstädtischer Markt and later Neuer Markt, today's name Gendarmenmarkt is derived from the Regiment Gens d'armes (Man-at-Arms) of the Soldier King Friedrich I who had their stables here from 1736 to 1773.

Concert House in different colors during the Festival of Lights 2010

Detail Concert House

Gendarmenmarkt around 1900

Gendarmenmarkt 1903

Sundown over Berlin – View from the Daimler-Chrysler Building

2010-07-31T16:32:00.008+02:00

Skyrocket to dizzying heights with Europe's fastest elevator. Soar up to the top of the Daimler-Chrysler building at Potsdamer Platz with a maximum speed of 8.4 meter per second to enjoy the really great view from the platform in 93 meters height. Concerning the fastest elevator ever ridden in Europe, there is a catch, though. Isn't there always a catch? ;)

Due to acceleration and deceleration, this fancy machine needs 20 seconds to reach the platform. Now, this is not as fast as the elevator in Berlin's TV tower "Alex" (needs 40 seconds for 203 meters!), but it is fun anyhow and the platform has no glass barrier, so you can breathe fresh air!

Beautiful Chinese New Year's Lanterns

2010-07-10T17:54:00.004+02:00

If you read my recent entries, you probably have already guessed where these photos were taken: In the Ethnological Museum – of course. I'm not through yet!

The little guys you see on the pics are in fact New Year's Lanterns! Who would've thought that?

Japanese Miniatures – Ethnological Museum Berlin

2010-07-09T14:55:00.007+02:00

Berlin's Ethnological Museum exhibits: Cool Coffin from Ghana

2010-07-07T12:50:00.004+02:00

If this doesn't make death look brighter for a model car fan, I don't know what will ...

Do not despair if you are a chef or something: You can order a chilli coffin or a gigantic chicken coffin, or if you are a pilot, get buried in a model plane.

Don't miss this video on youtube: Coffin maker in Ghana

Haitian Voodoo in Berlin

2010-07-07T12:30:00.003+02:00

So, you can't stand the heat and are desperate for some place to cool down?

Visit the Haitian Vodou exhibition in the ethnological museum at Berlin-Dahlem! It's nice and cool, but you have to bring your own pins and needles.

Apparently the whole sticking-needles-into-dolls-thingy to harm your enemies is nothing but a big fat myth initially told by an American fiction writer and later spread all over the world through Hollywood industry.

Isn't that a shame!

After the discovery of the island of Hispaniola by Columbus in 1492 (where nowadays the states Haiti and the Dominican Republic are situated) and the subsequent annihilation of the natives within the very short period of 25 years, the western third of the island became a French colony in 1697.

To sustain the forestry and sugar-related industries, slaves were imported to Haiti from Western and Central Africa. They brought their deities with them, but were not allowed to practice their cult. Over time, this fact led to the blending of traditional beliefs with Roman Catholic liturgy.

One century later Haiti's nearly half million slaves revolted and independence was declared in 1804.

Voodoo (also: Vaudou, Vodoun, Vodou etc.) designates the sacred, the power coming from the invisible world to influence the here and now. I found it translated as "spirit" or "god".

The current exhibition in Berlin shows about 350 objects from a private collection.

Ethnological Museum

Traveling Haiti: Haitian Voodoo

List of Caribbean gods

Graffiti Art in Kreuzberg

2010-05-27T19:29:00.006+02:00

One house, so many stories

Artist Reinhard Kleist

Meilenwerk Berlin: Showing off Vintage Cars at their best

2010-05-25T17:55:00.027+02:00

Meet up with this sexy lady and her mean machine right in front of Meilenwerk before visiting their classic car show. Don't hesitate to bring your kids: Once inside the place, you will find an absolutely G-rated environment.

A must-go for every vintage car enthusiast, this dealership exhibits the most exquisite jewels of the past century. Additionally you can find a great variety of products associated with vintage cars as well as a restaurant with Sunday Jazz brunch and several club areas.

Meilenwerk Berlin

Impressions from the Carnival of Cultures 2010

2010-05-24T15:20:00.005+02:00

Yesterday was the day: Berlin's international cultural scene took over Kreuzberg in a spectacular and flamboyant parade.

Hundred groups from 70 different nations - a total of about 4.800 people - participated in the colorful procession. Starting at Hermannplatz, the border between the two boroughs Neukölln and Kreuzberg, the procession slowly moved to Südstern, astonishing hundreds of thousands of visitors lining the streets.

The street parade on Whitsunday was the highlight of that 15th edition of the 4-day street festival which ends today.

Official site

Indian Fountain in Kreuzberg

2010-04-15T16:22:00.006+02:00

The foundations of this extraordinary 2.20 m high "Indian Fountain" situated in the rosarium of Luisenstädtischer Kanal, Kreuzberg, were discovered during excavations at the site in 1993.
As the statue remained missing, it was reconstructed by the sculptor Gerald Matzner following the style and material of its historic model.

Crowned by a mysterious "bayadère", five circular levels tapered off towards the top surmount the two-tiered octogonal shaped basin.

My efforts to find an explanation for the statue's open back, protruding spine, or the noses right under her bottom have been unsuccessful so far. Who has any idea, please leave a comment!

Those were the days ...

2010-04-14T13:52:00.003+02:00

... when even a firebox was designed as an art object.

This ancient beauty is able to fade Bellevue Palace into the background, as it seems. At least this is true as far as I am concerned.

But beware: As we read below, only the one "who can specify the location of the fire scene, is authorized to report the fire!" ;)

Spring Flowers in Tiergarten

2010-04-09T16:24:00.007+02:00

The "Grosse Tiergarten", located in Berlin's center is the second largest urban park in Germany.

Originally used as hunting reserve by the Electors, it was transformed into a park in 1830. From 1961 - 1989 its eastern borders were crossed by the Berlin Wall.

In the center of the park, the famous Victory Column (Siegessäule) dominates a busy traffic circle. This monument survived World War II without considerable damage and was saved from destruction through the French by a British-American veto after the war.

The vast parkland is a fine place to walk, relax, barbecue or just admire blossoming flowers.

Tree House Architecture

2010-04-06T14:23:00.005+02:00

Have you ever dreamed about living in a tree house?

Now, this one, located on former no-man's-land right behind Berlin's second largest church (St. Thomas Church, Bethaniendamm 29 in the Kreuzberg district) fails to inspire confidence regarding its structure, as far as I am concerned.

More adventurous spirits, however, may wish to contact the owner to arrange for a special holiday ;)

Ring my Bell

2010-04-05T13:15:00.004+02:00

Piece of grafitti near Oranienplatz (Kreuzberg)

Figures in the Park – Outdoor Exhibition

2010-03-14T15:02:00.004+01:00

One of the first things to attract your attention when you enter the DRK clinical center in Berlin's Westend (Spandauer Damm 130) will probably be the statue right opposite the main entrance.

If you care to take a closer look at the surroundings, you will certainly realize that many other sculptures, namely a total of 33 and predominantly representations of human beings, are distributed throughout the parkland.

Over a period of 5 decades these statues were formed by sculptors like Schriebers, Loth, Szymanski, Klinge, Wilde and Winzer, before they found their home in Berlin's Westend.

On a balmy spring evening (hopefully soon to come) take a walk to explore this extraordinary exhibition. A detailed map with pictures of all the statues can be found here.

The "Große Fevi" (Big Fevi) by Dietrich Klinge (1999) caught my eye when I walked down from the tropical institute to the exit. The sculpture looks like it was made of wood, while in fact it is a bronze casting.

American Memorial takes Form of Public Library

2010-03-06T14:30:00.002+01:00

After World War II, all major libraries were located in the eastern part of Berlin, so that the western sectors were left with almost no research libraries.

At its opening in 1954 the American Memorial Library, a gift from the United States to the people of Berlin, was the most modern library in Europe. Constructed according to the quintessential American democratic ideal that knowledge and education should be available to all, regardless of social class, this universal library offers a broad spectrum of literature for everyone.

The open library concept where readers could hang out and browse books and magazines at leisure was totally new in Germany. This concept for free "education, information, recreation", the freedom to learn, study, and seek the truth, is also expressed through the building's architecture which conveys a sense of spaciousness and transparency.

The entrance to the library is linear and free of barriers. Once you have entered the vestibule, you can immediately see the library's hall through the glass doors in front of you.

The location of the library (now protected as a historical site) was carefully selected: Only half a mile away from the border, it was clearly visible in East Berlin. The large neon letters on top of the building which read "Gedenkbibliothek" (= Memorial Library) could be seen from the Friedrichstraße train station, then located in the eastern sector.

Since 1995 the library has been part of Berlin's central and regional library. Among other things it possesses a vast film department (50 000 movies), and even a Black Box, where films are projected on a large screen. In the picture-lending library (Artothek) you can borrow paintings, sculptures and figures. In the music department, concerts are held, and there is even a Piano Room (with one Bechtstein and one Steinway) which visitors can use to practice. The room can be reserved for up to two hours a week.

The American Memorial Library truly is a library for the people. Contrary to most libraries I know, the atmosphere is refreshing and lively. Young people of all nationalities meet up to read and chat, do their homework together, or roam the aisles browsing for literature.

The children's and young adult's library, also located in the building and named "Hallescher Komet" (= Halle's Comet as an allusion to the closest subway train station Hallesches Tor) is the largest of its kind in Germany.

Address

"In Rixdorf is Musike!" - There is Music in Rixdorf

2010-03-03T16:11:00.001+01:00

Right in the center of the big market and pedestrian island on Hermannplatz in the district of Neukölln, we see – if we care to look up – the bronze sculpture of a dancing couple. People also call it "Rixdorfer Tanzpärchen" which means "Dancing couple from Rixdorf", "Rixdorf" being one of Neukölln's old names.

More than 100 years ago, Hermannplatz used to mark the borderline between Berlin and Rixdorf. Rixdorf with all its dancing halls and breweries was a playground for hedonists and the epitome of pleasure, amusement, and debauchery, a place for Berliners to booze up and have fun with easy girls – hence the popular melody "In Rixdorf is Musike".

In January 1912 the name was changed into "Neukölln", as the bad image of Rixdorf hovered all over the place and the local authorities wanted to finally get rid of it.The statue was sculptured by Joachim Schmettau in 1985 for the opening of a garden festival and used to rotate around its own axis twice an hour, but is now standing still.

American Hook Organ finds new Home in German Church

2010-03-02T18:21:00.009+01:00

On my way to the America Memorial Library in Kreuzberg, I passed by a stunningly beautiful Gothic Revival style brick church with multiple svelte towers springing up into the sky: The Church of the Holy Cross.

According to the wishes of Emporer William I. of Prussia this monumental church was designed by Johannes Otzen, the son of an organist and village school teacher, and built from 1885 to 1888. Being too modest for the Emporer's taste, the unpretentious design priorly offered by architect Blankenstein had been rejected in favor of the four times as costly representative edifice.

The church consists of a nave and a transept with a crossing tower which in about 20 meters height is topped by a dome.

World War II left the church in ruins after fire bombs had hit the building. In the years following 1945, pastor and parish were strongly opposed to governmental demolition plans and managed to enforce the building's reconstruction. The interior was kept much simpler from then on: The hitherto decorative brick work was plastered over, giving the space a somewhat sterile feeling.

In 1995 the structure was extensively renovated for prospective clerical and secular utilization. Apropos: As soon as I entered the churches vestibule, I was greeted by a vile stench and when I turned my head I saw a homeless man peacefully snoring in a corner surrounded by all his worldly possessions.

In 2001 the church received a unique instrument: The Organ op. 553 built in 1870 by Hook Bros., Boston. It is the only 19th-Century American organ in Germany. This gigantic instrument possesses 2370 pipes and is a genuine instrument of high romanticism.

Hook Organ
Church of the Holy Cross – Homepage

Old National Gallery

2010-03-01T15:10:00.002+01:00

Pierers Universal-Lexikon, 1891

Situated on Berlin's Museum Island (UNESCO designated World Heritage Site) the Old National Gallery harbors artwork treasures of the 19th century, namely Classical, Romantic, Biedermeier, Impressionist and early Modernist masterpieces (Friedrich, Schinkel, Monet, Manet, Renoir, Cézanne, Rodin, Liebermann, Corinth, Spitzweg etc). Currently the gallery is exhibiting the "Amalfi Sketchbook" by Carl Blechen.

The basis of the current collection was established in 1861, when the Swedish banker J. H. W. Wagener bequeathed 262 paintings to the Prussian king William I. Until the opening of the Old National Gallery in spring 1876, the collection was housed in the Academy of Arts.

The building itself (designed by Stüler, constructed by Strack) is shaped like a Corinthian temple (with attached apse) set on a high ashlar base with embedded rectangular windows. An impressive flight of steps leads the visitor up to the main entrance, through an open hall of pillars, while the bronze equestrian statue of the museum's founder, Frederick William IV, on the middle landing of the stairway is securing the building's front.

Heavily damaged during the air raids of World War II, the building was partly reopened in 1949. However, reconstruction work continued until 1969.

More photos
Homepage of the Gallery

Withering Cold subsides

2010-02-27T18:39:00.001+01:00

This blog's barren January/February sections are due to the writer's unwillingness to courageously deal with life's icy crusted face.

I believe millions of people out there loved this winter's grimness (at least it really could be called a "winter") – sadly enough I don't belong among them.

Now that the air is almost balmy, I will put myself out there again, taking photos and hunting for more or less history-charged material.

Below you see how the street and back yard of my house looked 10 days ago.

Need a great Idea for Christmas Presents? Help those who really need it.

2009-12-19T11:40:00.002+01:00

Now, this is certainly not about Berlin, but it might be very helpful. Today I learned about Oxfam International, "a confederation of 14 like-minded organizations working together and with partners and allies around the world to bring about lasting change" (Oxfam International). This organization wishes to end poverty and injustice, which of course is a noble goal ...

They have an online shop where you can buy chickens, goats, health check-ups, rainwater collection systems, classrooms, and, and, and! The store is called Oxfam unwrapped in English and Oxfam unverpackt in German. You send a gift to someone who really needs it and your loved one gets a card - and (at least in Germany) a fridge magnet.

See links below!

Oxfam English
Oxfam German

Romantic Christmas Market – KulturBrauerei

2009-12-17T22:01:00.001+01:00

One of Berlin's most beautiful and most romantic Christmas Markets (and there are oh so many) takes place at the KulturBrauerei in Prenzlberg. It ends next Tuesday, so hurry up to pay a visit!

I couldn't really take pictures tonight because my camera refused active duty after just a few pics – out of spiteful defiance or perhaps because it was way too cold to function. We enjoyed strolling around this Christmas market, which is inspired by the Nordic countries and had a goblet of steaming hot and very tasty Finnish Glogg.

Official homepage

Schuttberg –Trümmerhaufen – View over a City from a Debris Mountain

2009-12-15T18:41:00.004+01:00

Sometimes things have to get destroyed to rise high.

After the extensive damage from strategic bombing during World War II. many debris mountains were raised in Germany.
One of them is the Humboldthöhe (85 m) opposite the Gesundbrunnen station. From here (standing on the ruins of a concrete flak tower [anti aircraft tower] with the German Unity Memorial on top) you have an excellent view above the area around Humboldthain and Gesundbrunnen. If the weather is good you can see the Radio Tower and another debris mountain, the Teufelsberg (Devil's Mountain).

Flak towers were built during World War II. to provide air raid shelter for the civil population. There was room for up to 50 000 people in the lower level of a flak tower while upper levels were used for military action.

Today the towers contribute to the protection of nature: They have become a suitable hibernaculum for bats!

Berlin's Underworld - Relics of World War II

2009-11-23T12:28:00.027+01:00

Berlin, that's for sure, has many different and highly fascinating faces!
Discover one of them beneath the Gesundbrunnen underground railway station in Berlin's North, where civilian shelters and bunker complexes await the intrigued visitor eager for historical knowledge, enticed to research, and wondering about the circumstances in which people lived during the bomb raids of World War II – or just plain curious to see "what's hidden beneath the surface".

One-man bunker in front of station

Berliner Unterwelten e. V.

Hermannplatz - Neukölln

2009-11-10T20:19:00.012+01:00

Named after Herman the Cherusk (a.k.a. Gaius Julius Arminius) who defeated a Roman army in the Battle of the Teutoburg Forest, this place, situated in North Neukölln, constitutes one of the borders between Kreuzberg and Neukölln. The Karstadt department store occupies the corner belonging to Kreuzberg, the remaining area being part of Neukölln.

In 1929 Karstadt opened a huge department store on Hermannplatz. At the time it was Europe's most modern department store with an Art Deco architecture reminiscent of New York's skyscrapers.

The impressive building towered above Hermannplatz and survived the bombings of World War II. Sadly it was destroyed in 1945 - presumably by the SS who wanted to prevent the Red Army from laying hands on all the yummy stuff stored in the building.

Today's Karstadt is not comparable to the former one. It still has a terrace on its roof top though, from where you have a nice view over the busy neighborhood. A model of the or Karstadt can be found on its highest floor (see pictures below).
Historical pictures of Hermannplatz

"Ich bin ein Berliner" - I am a Citizen of Berlin

2009-11-09T18:52:00.003+01:00

The above building - City Hall Schöneberg - was the stage for John F. Kennedy's famous words. From a platform on the steps of the City Hall he spoke to a crowd of West Berliners living in an enclave in the "deep East" in 1963, and fearing East German occupation.

On November 9, 1989 - exactly 20 years ago today - the East German government announced that all GDR residents were allowed to visit West Germany and West Berlin. A torrent of East Germans climbed over the wall joined by West Germans on the other side. After so many years of separation, families and friends were finally united.

Events celebrating the Fall of the Berlin Wall

Kennedy's speech on Youtube

What makes a Door Handle so special?

2009-11-06T10:38:00.016+01:00

Are you in the market for a new or used door handle? Then you may consider having it hand-crafted like the one I found on the entrance door of Berlin Schöneberg's City Hall. Top view: Just a beautiful giant door handle.

Life teaches us simple lessons: It's always better to look twice!

Kaiser William Memorial Church - Anti-war Memorial

2009-11-05T09:31:00.027+01:00

Kaiser William Memorial Church, or as my daughter refers to it: "the broken church", is indeed an extraordinary landmark of Berlin. The Protestant church is located in the center of the Breitscheidplatz on Kurfürstendamm and visible over a great distance. The church - inaugurated in 1895 - was severely damaged during a bombing raid in 1943. Whereas the National Socialists promised the reconstruction of the church, the allied forces were reluctant to do so, as the building stood for the Wilhelmian-German national pride.

In the late 50s/early 60s a new church with a tower, a foyer, and a chapel was built and grouped around the ruins of the old church. The buildings are constructed in concrete, steel, and glass, the walls being made of a concrete honeycomb with more than 20.000 unique stained glass inlays by the French artist Gabriel Loire from Chartres. The predominant color is blue interspersed with red, green and yellow. The atmosphere inside the new church is delightful, due to the prismatic variation of colors.

The entrance hall of the damaged spire is open to visitors and presents beautiful mosaics, bas-reliefs, and sculptures along with panels which tell the story of the damaged church.

Source: Bundesarchiv

Kaiser William Memorial Church

The Athlete

2009-11-02T20:29:00.006+01:00

Bronze by Margret Middell, 1965; in front of
the Zeiss Large Planetarium Prenzlauer Berg

The Time Flow Clock

2009-11-01T17:53:00.003+01:00

Thirteen meters tall and three whole stories high, the Time Flow Clock is a center of attraction in the Europa-Center Berlin. This colorful eye candy was designed and built by the French scientist Bernard Gitton in 1982. For a description of the clock's functionality visit Europa-Center's homepage (Time Flow Clock).

Water clocks are supposed to count among the oldest time-measuring instruments (probably appeared in China as early as 4000 B.C.E.)

Wiki about water clocks

Welcome to the Buyer's Paradise - KADEWE

2009-10-31T20:27:00.017+01:00

This monstrous bat was hovering above the restaurant's guests today in Berlin's KADEWE (Kaufhaus Des Westens = Department Store of the West). For a lousy 160 € the eager consumer could purchase a ticket to gain access to their Halloween Party. Cheers!

The more than 100 years old KADEWE was opened in March 1907. It is the largest department store on the European continent. In 1927 the store was incorporated into the Hertie group. In the course of the "Aryanization" during the National Socialist era, the owners were forced to sell and an "Aryan" managing director was appointed. An American airplane crashed into the building in 1943 - the KADEWE almost burned to the ground.

The original KADEWE was designed by the architect Johann Emil Schaudt. It was a five stories high ferroconcrete building in unadorned neoclassical style. The storefront made out of shell limestone was structured horizontally (residential building like) with two central projections.

Today the giant store welcomes up to 180.000 visitors from all over the world each day - many of them just strolling around and marveling at the luxurious goods offered for sale.

Entrance hall in 1908

Storefront 1907

KADEWE homepage

The Water Tower's dark Secret

2009-10-30T15:53:00.005+01:00

This water tower located in Prenzlauer Berg near Kollwitzplatz is the oldest water tower of Berlin. It was completed in 1877 and active until 1952. At the very beginning of the Third Reich the tower's machine house was used as a "wild" concentration camp . Here, the SA tortured and killed Jews and opponents of the regime.

Later, in 1934, when Hitler felt threatened by the SA's independence under their leader Ernst Röhm, the SS and the Gestapo massacred many of the SA men in this building during the famous "Night of the Long Knives" (also known as "Operation Hummingbird").

Today, the water tower is used as residential house.

Young People's Museum - Schöneberg

2009-10-29T19:28:00.006+01:00

A very warm welcome awaits you on your visit to the "Young People's Museum" in Schöneberg.

Situated in a beautiful old villa, this unusual museum offers among other exhibitions the "Amazing Cabinets and Chests"-exhibition, where you can explore 54 yellow chests, each of which contains a selection of themed items from different areas of life. You can touch and check out objects, you can try on clothes, etc.

There is also a "History Laboratory" which is exhibition and research workshop wrapped in one. More than 300 objects - ranging from toy to espionage camera - tell the story of our once-divided city.

If you are looking for something exceptional for your kid's upcoming birthday: Children from 6 years on may even celebrate their birthday party in this very special location.

Young People's Museum

Mädchen mit Spielelementen - Girl with Play elements

2009-10-27T21:41:00.009+01:00

This bronze statue by Michael Klein was erected in 1985 in East Berlin. The statue is dedicated to the German pedagogue Friedrich Wilhelm August Fröbel (1782 - 1852) - who coined the word "kindergarten" and its today universally known concept.

Fröbel was an advocator of "free play" in childhood and designed and manufactured educational toys for children.

Fröbel: "Education = Example + love, nothing else."

Fröbel Website
Fröbel Gifts
Fröbel in the Encyclopedia Britannica

Grey Giant meets Red Beauty - Ernst Thälmann Park, Pankow

2009-10-26T20:53:00.001+01:00

Bergmannstraße - Impressions

2009-10-25T21:27:00.005+01:00

The Bergmannstraße in Kreuzberg is a very colorful and busy street crowded with people, shops, pubs, and restaurants. Find vintage and modern fashion, cozy places to eat and drink, and a great variety of people from all over the world as well as the historic Marheineke Market Hall (dating back to the 19th century), a huge indoor grocery shop.

Holy Martha!

2009-10-24T20:06:00.009+02:00

This very beautiful red brick house (built in 1912) in Kreuzberg, a stone's throw away from the border of northern Neukölln, holds a very special secret: It covers a backyard Church! Who would have guessed that?

Walk through the gateway and you will be standing right in front of St. Martha, the church of a protestant parish. Built in renaissance style in 1904, the church bears a striking resemblance to the U-Bahnhof "Schlesisches Tor" (one of the first Berlin subway stations). U-Bahnhof

In the seventies the church was split horizontally to make room for indispensable community work: If you enter the church through its main entrance you will find a large hall reserved for inter-cultural and inter-religious open youth work and a kindergarten. Use the stair to get to the room where religious service takes place.

Martha-Gemeinde
Picture of Martha Church in 1904

Zeiss Large Planetarium

2009-10-23T19:26:00.002+02:00

Under the three-quarter sphere of Berlin's "Zeiss Large Planetarium" you can contemplate the starry sky even on a cloudy, almost rainy afternoon. That's what I did today.

The Zeiss Large Planetarium is located in the former East Berlin in Prenzlauer Berg (or Prenzlberg as the locals say). Inaugurated in Oktober 1987, it was built as one of the world's largest planetariums. You enter the 295-seat planetarium on the second floor. The seating arrangement is unidirectional, which means that the seats point in one preferred direction of projection.

The planetarium offers a special program for children, and also foreign language events in English and Russian (must be booked for groups - events ).

Zeiss Großplanetarium
All you ever wanted to know about planetariums

Housing in the 21. Century - Example: Germany

2009-10-22T17:09:00.001+02:00

No comment

Umbrella Kids - "Kinder unterm Regenschirm"

2009-10-21T19:36:00.012+02:00

This afternoon while riding the tram on my way to take photos of the Synagogue in Rykestraße, I spotted a cute couple, holding an umbrella. Instantly I jumped out (fortunately the tram had stopped anyway) to take a closer look:

Of course I wondered what this sculpture might represent, and when I arrived home I did a little research on their behalf: The sculpture is apparently a well - which I had not realized - and was built by Stefan Horota, a German sculptor in the years 1967/68. It seems, the artist wanted to erect a memorial in the honor of the children of Prenzlauer Berg (an East Berlin city district).

The materials used are bronze (sculpture) and granite (socket) and you can find the sculpture in Prenzlauer Berg (corner of Prenzlauer Allee / Danziger Straße, right opposite the tram stop [Tram 1 and 20]).

Jewish Life in Berlin

2009-10-20T19:35:00.018+02:00

New Synagogue Berlin, 1896

The first documentation of Jewish presence in Berlin reaches as far back as 1295.

After several acts of persecution and expulsion in Brandenburg and Berlin during the Middle Ages, today's over 12,000-member-strong Jewish community started out in 1671 when several wealthy Jewish families - expelled from Austria - were allowed to settle in Berlin. This was due to the fact that Emperor Frederick William of Prussia needed help with the reconstruction of the country after the Thirty Years War.

Today, Berlin's Jewish community is a fast growing one. Many Jews in Berlin are unaffiliated, so that the total number of Jewish inhabitants is estimated at 20,000 - 30,000. In 1991 the German government adopted the Contingent Refugee Act which "exempted Jews from the many hurdles that immigrants face when applying for German citizenship" (ACJ), which subsequently led to an immigration wave of Soviet Jews.

Nowadays you can find 7 Synagogues in Berlin (photos here : Rykestraße 53) with their religious orientations ranging from orthodox to egalitarian (addresses and religious orientation).

Jüdische Gemeinde Berlin

Synagogues

Flashy!

2009-10-19T22:14:00.005+02:00

After my little daughter taught me the very basics of flashy photography (you have to use a tripod) I managed to get a few halfway decent shots. See for yourself.

Exposure Time

2009-10-18T15:21:00.000+02:00

Okay: Today I learned about the exposure time thing. I won't have time to get out there and take photos, so I will do that tomorrow. Take the tripod and off I go to - hopefully - deliver a few good shots.

Wish me luck!

Festival of Lights

2009-10-17T17:54:00.007+02:00

The night is falling and I'm gonna get out there in a few minutes and shoot some. That sounds a bit weird, but wait until you see the flamboyantly lit nightly Berlin!

Yeah, right. Now: That was so not fun! I went out there in the cold an rainy night - only to make my one reader happy (and myself of course but that doesn't really count) - and what happened? I have no idea. My Samsung refused to take other than really crappy photos. What did I do wrong? Why does it hate me so much? Have I unknowingly mistreated you, my dear friend?

I adjusted the camera settings one million times, approximately - without any other result than taking more crappy photos. Luckily there is an official Festival of Lights website! Go there, my one reader and take a look:

Festival of Lights - Berlin

Here comes the fun thing: After this, I took a few photos in the subway, and guess what? All of them pin sharp! Now you tell me why is that so!

Go climb the Alex!

2009-10-16T20:08:00.000+02:00

Sad, but true: Many Berliners have never been on top of their city's 365 meter high TV tower at Alexanderplatz. Visit the 70s style rotating restaurant on top (it is not expensive) and enjoy the marvelous view over Germany's most exciting city.

Watch the miniaturized city life, downscaled trains and suddenly so tiny tower buildings. Now, during the Festival of Lights it would be a good idea to go there at night and contemplate the illuminated urban life.

Get your passport stamped!

2009-10-15T18:42:00.001+02:00

You can find that tourist shop at the East Side Gallery. I thought it was a funny idea, until I learned it was a felony ;) in this forum: Beware of criminal passport stamping!
Hilarious! Please read the answer written by "klaush" - it is the third post on the page.

International Boat Party - Weekly Language Party

2009-10-14T13:50:00.002+02:00

Every Wednesday, if you are up to it, you can spend a diverting evening on the "Eastern Comfort", a lounge floating on the river Spree only a stone's throw away from the Oberbaum Bridge.

In addition to meeting people, and hearing (or speaking) a great variety of languages, you can just relax and enjoy the cozy atmosphere close to the fire place while sipping on your drink. A different band is performing every week - starting around 10 p.m.

For details visit Charles Clawson's website: International Events in Berlin

Café Dritter Raum - Parlor with WLAN

2009-10-13T17:49:00.003+02:00

Today I visited "Café Dritter Raum", Hertzbergstraße 14 in Neukölln. In addition to the friendly sofa-ish atmosphere and inspiring conversation possibilities, they offer extensive, very reasonably priced breakfast and unlimited WLAN.

Lots of books and newspapers are available for the common and uncommon reader. Visit their website and register for the newsletter to get updated on the weekly program.

I greatly enjoyed my stay and will be back for sure!

Website Dritter Raum

I know I am ugly - but I glow at night

2009-10-12T18:56:00.000+02:00

What is there to learn from the above: It's always good to know how to put your "special features" into perspective! :)

Oberbaumbrücke

2009-10-11T23:50:00.000+02:00

Oberbaumbrücke in 1900

This most representative and beautiful double-deck bridge links Kreuzberg in former "West Berlin" to Friedrichshain (former East Berlin). The architect Otto Stahn designed the bridge in the style of a city gate and added many decorative elements (cross vaults, coats of arms, pointed arches).

In 1961 the Berlin Wall was built, and the bridge became a part of East Berlins border with West Berlin. The U-Bahn which had been crossing the bridge by the time was forced to terminate at Schlesisches Tor.

From the bridge you have a fantastic view over the river Spree.

"Hoş geldiniz" - Welcome!

2009-10-10T19:30:00.002+02:00

You can find this beautifully painted house at the western end of the Oberbaum Bridge on Kreuzberg territory. The Turkish inscription on the balcony reads "Hoş geldiniz" ... "Welcome!".

Molecule Man

2009-10-09T21:21:00.005+02:00

Three men are standing 30 meters tall, right in the middle of the river Spree. They have been standing there for years, since the end of the past century, reliable, solid, motionless aluminum giants, permanent installation by the artist Jonathan Borofsky.

They symbolize the conjunction of East and West, as three former boroughs meet here: Kreuzberg (former West), Treptow (East), and Friedrichshain (East).

East Side Gallery

2009-10-08T13:57:00.001+02:00

The East Side Gallery, located close to the center of Berlin and running alongside the river Spree, is a 1316 meter long section of the Berlin Wall. After the opening of the Wall in fall 1989, the east side of the wall was painted by over 100 artists from 21 countries.

The gallery was inaugurated on September 28, 1990. It is the longest permanent open-air gallery of the world.
All photos here

Click on picture to enlarge!

Heroes of the Air - German Aeronauts

2009-10-07T09:29:00.028+02:00

"Den deutschen Luftschiffern 1914 - 1918" Monument for the German aeronauts

Today I am addressing the subject of the extinct guild of aeronauts, thanks to my friend Ayla who pointed me to the topic by pointing her finger at the moss-grown monument right in front of the St. Johannis basilica in Neukölln. As a result I took two quick photos - and on this page they are!

What a venturous fellow, what a bold heroic face struck in stone ...

Now, what sinister story is there, hidden amongst the almost impermeable thicket behind the monument?

On July 4, 1900, the gentle reader may have caught an article published in the New York Times announcing the halfway successful airship trial by Count von Zeppelin, which had taken place on the evening of July 2 (see article).

Fifteen years later another article was published in the same paper, this time reporting about "the spectacular Zeppelin raid on London on Sept. 8".

Not so funny: Zeppelin's airships were used to drop bombs in World War I (read full original article from NY Times). The article is truly worth a read as it involves many eyewitness accounts!

Being extremely easy targets and susceptible to gusts of wind, Zeppelins turned out not to be very useful as bombers after all.

Islam in Berlin

2009-10-06T16:26:00.008+02:00

Background: Maschari Center with Omar-Ibn-Al-Khattar Mosque opposite Görlitzer Bahnhof

Video about Mosque

According to Euro-Islam.info around 200 000 Muslims are living in Berlin. An estimated 40 000 of them are naturalized German citizens. Altogether Berlin's Islamic population totals approximately 9% of Berlin's entire population.

Since fall 2002 the "Islamische Föderation" - due to their winning a long-lasting lawsuit against school authorities - has been teaching religious lessons in 20 public schools. Thenceforth school offices have been receiving an increasing number of petitions to excuse girls from any sorts of sporting activities.

About 82 mosques and Islamic centers are situated in Berlin. They are visited for prayer and religious ceremonies, and some of them additionally offer cultural, social or educational activities.

The majority of Berlin Muslim residents (72%) believe Muslims living in Germany to be loyal to the country. 94% of Muslims in Berlin reject violence as "an acceptable moral response for a noble cause".

Source: Euro-islam.info

Beautiful Neukölln - Maybach riverside

2009-10-05T11:55:00.011+02:00

What are you up to on a balmy Sunday afternoon in autumn? Leave your digs and take an extensive walk alongside the Landwehrkanal which seperates northern Neukölln from Kreuzberg. On the Maybach riverside - Neukölln - you will find lots of little pubs and restaurants where you can sit outside and watch cheeky little sparrows, frolicing kids, and tourist boats on the slow flowing canal.

Or you cross over to the "nobler" side - Kreuzberg - and walk down the Paul-Lincke-Ufer with its thoroughly restored town houses. You can also sit down and watch boules players or take part in their game.

Yesterday, on my way home, I encountered this most peculiar vehicle packed with eager Neukölln sightseers:

Multicultural northern Neukölln

2009-10-04T14:32:00.005+02:00

According to a European Council report (2008), northern Neukölln with its population of 160 000 has a share of migrants of over 50% with residence permit and another share of estimated 10% of illegal residents.

40% of the migrants originate from Turkey, 12% from Arabic countries, 11% from Poland, 10% from former Yugoslavia, an estimated 8% originate from Russia, and a considerable proportion of migrants are stateless (mainly Palestinians). In elementary schools 95% of the pupils have a native language other than German.

Source

Day of the open Mosque - Şehitlik-Mosque

2009-10-03T17:33:00.035+02:00

Today is the "Day of the open Mosque" where over 20 mosques in Berlin are opening their doors to visitors.

I chose to visit the Şehitlik Mosque in Neukölln as well as Germany's oldest Muslim cemetery (over 200 years old) which is located on the same piece of land. Turkish members of the Prussian army received the land from King Frederick William III.

The Şehitlik Mosque was built in 1983 on the Turkish cemetery from which it borrowed the name Şehit ( = maryr).

The building itself is an example of Classic 16th and 17th Turkish-Ottoman architecture while the interior decoration seems unusual for the classic period: Ceramic and marble elements complement each other to form a real gem.

Şehitlik-Mosque

U Görlitzer Bahnhof - Berlin metro (U-Bahn) station

2009-10-02T15:09:00.022+02:00

The U Görlitzer Bahnhof is located in Kreuzberg, a sub-district of Berlin, which offers a wide range of restaurants, pubs, bistros, bars, and all kinds of boozy nightlife a student or progressive could possibly hope for.

Inaugurated in February 1902, this rather unornamental engineering structure possesses two side platforms and a barrel-shaped roof. It was built by Siemens & Halske and belongs to Germany's first electrical overhead and underground railway system. The U1 on which this station is located, runs through Kreuzberg on to the Kurfürstendamm. The eastern part of the line is established on viaducts and is also the oldest section of the Berlin U-Bahn. The elevated construction of the metro line was possible, as it passed through poor areas. The richer residents of other quarters were able to prevent the rattling metal worm from crawling down their neighborhoods.

First known under the name of "Oranienstraße", the station was renamed "Görlitzer Bahnhof" in 1926 after the nearby railway station (demolished in the 1960s and 1970s; picture of station below). The map on the right side shows the situation of the railway station as well as the situation of the U Görlitzer Bahnhof (upper left corner).

Berlin - Historic Railway Structures

Spreewaldplatz with Görlitzer Bahnhof (1928)

Berlin Sketches: Rütli School Neukölln

2009-10-01T11:22:00.019+02:00

Starting today, I will roam the city of Berlin in search of interesting topics like colorful surroundings, animated street life, striking little moments, and all sorts of facts or observations worthwhile to report on.

An intriguing kick-off might be the nationwide famous Rütli School about which legends abound. The photos below show the school as well as its rather idyllic surroundings.

An open letter from the school's faculty complaining about increasing violence among pupils and against faculty members caused an uproar amongst the German media in 2006 (article in Spiegel international).

Over 80% of the pupils are from a non-German background. Most of them have Turkish or Arabic roots, and most of them are "good" kids, no matter what a fuss the media make of it.

By no means is Neukölln a dangerous neighborhood. To describe it as colorful would be a lot more accurate: This district of Berlin is inhabited by people from 160 different nations living quite peacefully together.

Hilarious video for those who understand German